Silk is a timelessly trendy natural fabric woven from the cocoons of silk worms. The world’s most famous fashion brands regularly apply it for various men’s and women’s outfits earning the admiration of the audience.
Jacquard fabric is a type of cloth featuring an intricate pattern woven into the warp on a special mechanical loom, rather than printed on the surface. It was a French weaver Joseph-Marie Jacquard who invented this technology in 1804, so the jacquard fabric was named after him.
These fabrics are available in a variety of compositions and weights and serve various purposes. Lightweight jacquards are often picked for spring and summer apparel, whereas heavy cloths have their say in colder seasons.
Jacquards come both in tone-on-tone and contrast designs, and a choice of patterns is unlimited: from classic stripes and polka dots to fancy botanicals, florals and even conversational themes. Unlike prints which are applied to the fabric after it is woven, jacquard patterns are created together with the cloth. The beauty of the jacquard loom is in its ability to interlace hundreds of warp threads to create unique designs.
Any jacquard fabric is all about the pattern, which looks that unique due to the way it is applied. Very often, if you look at the back of the cloth, long floats can be found; these are threads used to produce the pattern, and it tells you straight away that you are dealing with jacquard.
Though most jacquards are woven, there are also knitted options. Jacquard knit is either a single or double knit fabric made with any yarn. Compared to single cloth, double knit has no floats on the back and is reversible.
Since jacquard is a type of weave rather than a type of material, it can be made with a vast range of fibers. Let’s have a closer look at the composition:
Fiber |
What to Expect |
Suitable For |
---|---|---|
Cotton |
Soft, breathable, opaque, worn all year round |
Shirts, tops, blouses, dresses, pants, skirts, jackets, sweatshirts |
Silk |
Smooth, glossy or dull, thin, semi-sheer or opaque, worn in spring/summer and on special occasions |
Blouses, tops, dresses, skirts, scarves, lingerie, ties, lining |
Wool |
Soft, cozy, opaque, perfect for fall/winter |
Dresses, jackets, skirts, pants, coats, blazers, sweatshirts, cardigans |
Linen |
Soft, breathable, opaque, worn in spring/summer |
Dresses, shirts, skirts, tops, pants, wraps |
Blend |
From soft to slight wiry, various degrees of transparency, most are for four-season wear |
Shirts, tops, blouses, dresses, pants, skirts, jackets, sweatshirts, coats |
These fabrics are widely used for clothing, ties, slings, ribbons, as well as for home décor: upholstery, draperies, curtains, table and bed linen, etc. In terms of design, there is no limit to imagination. You can find anything from florals, paisley, stripes and polka dots to very large, detailed, intricate patterns that can tell a whole story.
Jacquard fabric collection at Tissura
Any jacquard becomes stretchy when mixed with elastic fibers – spandex, lycra or elastane. Stretch jacquard has the same usage, but is especially suitable for body-hugging and fitted styles.
There are also double-faced, or double-sided types of this fabric. These are woven with two face sides, usually in contrasting colors, and are reversible. The good thing about such designs is that you are free to use both sides for sewing: let’s say, you buy jacquard fabric by the yard and use one side for a jacket, and the other for a skirt. Or, you may sew your project using one side, and save the other for contrast details like cuffs, pockets, lapels, etc.
The advantages of jacquard materials depend a lot on composition. Still, there are some characteristics they all share in common. Most jacquard weave materials have floats on the back side. Plus, they are:
There are two more reasons why jacquards stand apart from the rest of woven fabrics.
First, the complexity of the design. Before the invention of the jacquard loom, such patterns were made by hand and involved a lot of labor and time. Nowadays, highly detailed motifs are woven automatically in a much shorter time. The secret is in controlling warp yarns. The jacquard loom creates a pattern by selecting and lifting warp yarns.
Second, the number of colors used. Modern technologies make it possible to produce sophisticated designs with a large or small repeat in the desired color range. You can weave anything you like using just one color or dozens of them: geometry, flora and fauna, abstract shapes, complex figures, etc.
There are several kinds of fabrics produced on a jacquard loom. At first sight, they may seem similar to you, but a closer look reveals a number of differences. Here’s a list of jacquard weave fabrics and their distinctive features every sewist should know:
Type |
Description |
Common Use in Apparel |
---|---|---|
Brocade |
A patterned raised cloth woven with multicolored threads. Usually heavy and rich, it is worn mainly on special occasions. Non-reversible, it can also contain metallic threads. |
Evening wear such as dresses and skirts, fancy jackets and coats |
Damask |
A reversible patterned fabric woven in cotton, silk, linen, viscose, etc. Smooth and lustrous, it is finer than brocade. Damasks can be tone-on-tone or multicolored, which means that the colors of the background and the pattern reverse from front to back. |
Dresses, skirts, blouses and tops, shirts, coats, ties |
Matelasse |
A fabric with a raised quilted effect, usually woven in solid colors. It is made with silk, cotton, wool, viscose and comes in all sorts of designs, from graphic to floral motifs. Matelasse can also be hand-stitched. |
Outerwear jackets and coats, dresses and skirts, handbags |
Cloque |
A fabric with a jacquard weave featuring a puckered or blistered effect. Often comes in silk, wool and cotton blends. |
Dresses, skirts, blouses, jackets |
Tapestry |
A fabric with a jacquard weave that imitates tapestries. Thicker and heavier than damask or brocade, sometimes it can reverse the colors like damask. |
Outerwear jackets and coats |
Brocatelle |
A tightly woven type of jacquard similar to damask, but with a raised, embossed pattern. Non-reversible, it often comes in a woven mix of silk, cotton, rayon or viscose. |
Haute couture wear |
Jacquard tends to have a raised surface, though sometimes the pattern is so delicate you can barely feel it under your fingers. Silk jacquard is the perfect illustration.
Silk jacquard has been conquering the fashion world season after season. Whether made of pure silk or silk blends, this exclusive fabric has a lot to offer. Unlike printed silk, its pattern is the result of elaborate weaving and is often slightly textured to the touch.
Basically, any silk fabric made on a jacquard loom is considered to be jacquard. Some of the examples include:
There’s no need to explain why silk is good for you. We’ll just mention that jacquard elements bring a designer touch to any silk fabric. Every season leading fashion houses come up with exquisite designs that serve as inspiration for sewing addicts: jacquard dresses and gowns, intricately patterned skirts and trousers, fancy blazers and accessories. Here are just some of the ideas on how to use silk jacquard:
Nothing stops you on your design journey. Just be careful and choose the right type of silk jacquard for your sewing project. Silk chiffon fabric is not a number one pick for trousers, but it’ll give you a fantastic blouse that can be worn even on special occasions.
Cotton jacquard is another type of natural jacquard options that bring the best properties of cotton fabrics to a wide range of fashion garments and accessories. What is special about this fabric?
If made of finest Egyptian cotton, this fabric is typically lightweight and has a soft finish, which makes it a perfect match for dresses, skirts, jackets and trousers.
Hygroscopic, hypoallergenic and environmentally friendly as any cotton fabric, cotton jacquard is mainly all about its double-sided pattern that can be multicoloured or two-tone. It is convex on one side and slightly concave on the other. The colours in such pattern are reflected mirror-like — if there’re dark colours on one side, then on the other side they are bright. The fabric is easy in care: it is machine-washable in 30°C and can be ironed on the inside out.
One might find the following claim too strong, however, a dress is what jacquard cloth is typically best applicable for. Despite lots of exclusive jacquard designs make an evening dress a sumptuous and show-stopping one, the dresses featuring a laconic design have gained the highest popularity. Below, you can find the list of classic jacquard dress styles both for special and informal occasions:
If you are the owner of a large chest, choose a discreet model that will barely bare your shoulders, but will emphasize the impeccable taste. Girls with a graceful figure and small chest can choose a larger cutout on the back.
Since jacquard is a type of weave and can be made of any fibers, care instructions depend a lot on the fabric you hold in hands. Some jacquards are ok with washing, while some of them prefer dry-cleaning. Here are a couple of tips you might find useful:
Jacquard is beautiful on oh so many levels. It gives you free rein to explore your designer skills since you can choose any weight, any finish and any composition. Looking for something lightweight? Try these silk or cotton fabrics. Want something more substantial? Channel your energy towards wool or blend jacquard. Whether you are working on some sort of special event wear or a low-key outfit, jacquard weave has got the potential to cater for every need.
The hottest trends in 2019 are stripes, checks, and florals. While printed fabrics are all the rage, jacquards are a perfect alternative for those who want to try something different. Fashion designers like to clash various textures and don’t mind matching the unmatchable. Why not follow their example and create an item that will be a real fashion statement? A two-piece suit in cotton jacquard for a business meeting, or a fit-and-flare silk cloque dress for a romantic outing? A matelasse coat for everyday wear, or a brocade jacket to steal the show at a party? There are many ways to dress for success, and wearing jacquard is one of them.
Is there a reason not to try jacquard? None detected. This sturdy weave is capable of building the entire wardrobe. E.g., cotton jacquard makes great apparel for warmer days, while silk cloque is a fabulous choice for evening gowns. Wool matelasse puts a spin on fall and winter outerwear, and embroidered brocade would take care of all your social events. There are hundreds of ways to incorporate these fabrics into any closet. Make sure you choose the right texture for your design project and don’t be afraid to go for it – you are always on the safe side with jacquard.
Although Tissura offers exclusively apparel fabrics, we still cannot omit to mention such an important jacquard application field as home décor. The peculiarities of its weave make it lustrous and durable, thus much important for curtains, drapery, upholstery, headboards, carpet bags, etc. The most popular applications of this fabric are curtains, which is explained by the following reasons:
No doubt, the year of 2019 is bringing a breath of fresh air. Here are some ideas to help you prepare for a new season:
Sounds tempting? If so, Tissura is the right place to bring any of them into life! Our extensive assortment comprises more than 80 various jacquard textiles by 16 European manufacturers, who are renowned as suppliers of the world's leading fashion houses. Coming in regular collections, these fabrics always reflect the latest fashion trends and can be sewn into a whopping range of luxurious clothing: evening dresses, blouses, skirts and tops, as well as classy shirts, sweatshirts, jackets and trousers. We bet you might be wondering at this point, what types of jacquard do we have? Ok, buckle up then:
Well, we can go on and on. The large assortment is not the only great thing about this fabric at Tissura, after all. What needs to be particularly stressed here, is the utmost quality both in weaving and dying, which is backed up with the impeccable reputation of their Italian, French and Swiss manufacturers. You can buy online jacquard fabrics below. Just click on the photo, and you will get to the product page. To open the catalogue of our entire jacquard collection, click on the blue button:
Silk jacquard fabric, 83 € (103 US$) per one running metre;
Silk jacquard fabric, 119 € (148 US$) per one running metre;
Double faced jacquard cloque, 203 € (251 US$) per one running metre
Jacquard brocade fabric, 189 € (234 US$) per one running metre;
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